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Sunday, September 28, 2014

Into The Forbidden Kingdom: My First Week in The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia



Around April of 2013 I acted on my decision that it was time to bid farewell to my then current employers. I visited family and friends around the US for a while and then I headed south to Costa Rica, spent some time in Nicaragua, and then made my way further south to Antarctica. At that point I was forced to head north. So I made my way back to Santiago and then into Bolivia (I swear I will finish the Bolivia blog within the year). I got back to the States in March and wandered around Virginia, Indiana, Georgia, and Florida with a brief venture into New Jersey for the Fourth of July. I had basically been doing whatever I wanted for close to a year and a half. In July I got certified as a PADI instructor and was ready to continue living happily with no money and no cares. Then I got a call from a recruiter asking if I’d be interested in a project management position in Saudi Arabia.

So here I am. Perched on the edge of the Red Sea and some of the finest diving the world has to offer. Hopefully I’ll get to sample that soon. So far I’ve just been getting accustomed to the completely different customs and getting into the flow of things at work. These different customs include: no music in public vs. music everywhere you want it, prayer time five times a day that results in literally everything being shut down for 30 – 45 minutes vs. pray if you want, don’t if you don’t want, but you can go to the store whenever you want, gender segregation to the point of separate rooms in dining establishments for women and single men vs. freely mixing it up and trying to have a good time, a strict ban on alcohol (can’t even have mouthwash with alcohol in it) vs. having a drink when you feel like it, and women banned from driving vs. crazy broads all over the road. So it’s not all bad.

Here’s a recap of the first week.

4 p.m. On a Thursday

I got to Jeddah and was not looking forward to a four hour layover, especially when it was only a three hour drive to Yanbu, my final destination. It turned out, I needed almost all that time to get through passport control and customs. Even with the bump to the front of passport control I got after telling one of the airport workers I had a connecting flight coming up. Most people I’ve encountered have been happy to give me some help when I asked for it and that’s one thing that makes all these differences tolerable. People that want to say all Muslims are horrible people and the Middle East is just a bunch of terrorists really need to reevaluate  the way they look at the world and quit trying to generalize everything bad in the world so that it suits their own personal views. End rant. After arriving in Yanbu, myself and another guy from the US were picked up at the airport by a couple of colleagues and given a short tour and taken to dinner at a Turkish place.

Friday

I just hung around the hotel. It was a really nice hotel. I wish I was back there now as I am writing this. Nothing too exciting happened Friday. We walked to Pizza Hut because it was the closest restaurant to the hotel. Next door was another Turkish place that I had heard was supposed to be really good. While we looking like a couple of newbies trying to figure out what door to go in (women and families in one, single men in another) a guy who claimed to be Texan and Mexican showed us the way in and the three of us ate together. After about an hour of some pretty good grub and the mostly coherent ramblings of a stranger musing on the forthcoming downfall of the almighty dollar, the benefits of buying tangible gold, and the unstoppable rise of the Chinese Empire, it was almost prayer time again and we had to go. Tex paid.

Saturday

Irish were idle. Got a tour around town. There’s not much here, but there will be. This place will be huge. The largest oil export city in the world when it’s done, and all of the stuff it takes to support the people working in it. I know. It sounds like something I’d have nothing to do with. But I’m here to implement district cooling systems to make the number one electricity consuming monster (air conditioning) more efficient and thus decrease the carbon footprint. And I sold out. Lunch on Saturday was like 4 or 5 bucks and it was big enough to double as dinner. That’s three dinners in a row that I didn’t pay full price.

Sunday

First day of work. Bunch of admin stuff and a free lunch.

Monday

Don’t remember. Didn’t take any notes. Pretty sure there was some free food in there somewhere.

Tuesday

At this point I’ve had my fill of chicken and rice and I venture out in search of vegetables. This search leads me to McDonald’s. I shit you not, this is where I had to go to find a healthy meal. This is my first time driving in Saudi Arabia and in general, the rules are, there are no rules. At least that’s what people say. I don’t think so. I mean you don’t always stop at stop signs, turn left from the right lane and stuff like that, but this isn’t The Philippines, or even Ecuador for that matter. Plus there aren’t many cars on the road. So it’s kind of fun. It was the 40th anniversary party for Yanbu and National Day here in The Kingdom, so I was detoured far away from my intended route. And the truck has been on E for a while. I remember saying something earlier like, “F*** it, let’s just get gas tomorrow. We have enough to get home and back to work”. Using my homing-pigeon-like sense of direction, I navigated my way through the darkened unfamiliar streets of Yanbu to a random gas station and drive right past it. Into the McD’s drive thru. I was three cars away from ordering when the call to prayer came and the lights went out. I thought I would sit there for 45 minutes waiting, but they discreetly took the orders of those in line and ushered us through. A garden salad and a Big Mac were almost in hand. The only thing that stood in my way was a Suburban trying to drive the wrong way through the drive through lane and a family of 7 ordering ice cream from the drive-up window. The driver of the SUV stopped just short enough for me to make my way through before throwing it in park and hopping out to order some ice cream from the drive-up window. At first I thought the employee was shooing these insane line-jumpers away. He was just motioning for me to drive around them so he could toss me the bag of health food I so desired. Dinner in hand, I headed to the gas station. 8 bucks to fill-er-up.

Wednesday

Nothing notable.

Thursday

Thursday is my new Friday. I celebrated by moving from my luxury hotel to my less-than-luxury apartment and going shopping. Remember women can’t drive here? Their solution is often to have their kids do it for them. I had heard it’s not uncommon to see 10 year olds driving. I saw a boy that couldn’t have been over 6. I mean this little Benjamin Button had to be sitting on two phonebooks with stilts attached to his feet. At first I thought I was having some sort of lack-of-alcohol hallucination. But it was all for real. I should have known something was up when he slowed down to let me turn in front of him instead of trying to gun in right through me. The little ones are still a little cautious behind the wheel.

That’s all for now. Oh, and someone else bought me a welcome to Yanbu lunch.

Week 2 highlights coming soon. Right now my internet is super slow. I hope to remedy that and get pics up soon.